Archive for the ‘How To’ Category

Ok so your here because your searching for a crack, or “hack”, or activation bypass because A. You have a bunk pirated copy of Microsoft office 2010 B. Your trial version has expired and you can no longer modify your documents C. Your a starving student and you don’t want to waste your dough on a legit copy because you reallly want to take out that hot chick in that one class your obviously not paying attention in. Whatever your reason… I have your solution.

I’m keeping this short and simple, but as always if you don’t know how to do it or don’t know what your doing, then just drop a comment and I’ll walk your through it.

Go HERE and download this torrent with your favorite torrent client of choice (mine is utorrent).  Once you’ve spent the whole 1 minute it should take to download that tiny file, open it up, run the INSTALLER, you know…the button that says “install”, ONLY then do you run the “re-authorize” or however he/she describes it. You’ll know what I mean once you click the link already.

The download like many cracks causes a false positive with some anti-virus clients, so don’t flip your wig and report some rookie ass crap like, “wraaaaa my Noobish Norton says it’s a trojan“.  It works well, I tested it, my first run through I didn’t apply it correctly, so it didn’t reset the already expired version of Microsoft Office 2011 Professional, on my second time around I installed it, then applied the reset and it worked flawlessly. You can use this as an indefinite workaround, however you have to reset every 180 days. But after 180 days, you should have already taken that hot chick out and should have the dough to cough up on a legit license.


If your here then your very familiar with Microsoft’s tactic with their “new” WAT (Windows Activation Technologies). In reality it isn’t new at all, it’s basically a rendition (maybe in name alone) of Microsoft’s Genuine Advantage.

So I could bore you all with tech talk behind the changes made to the protection technologies incorporated into MS7, but why drag you through the mundane shit, it’s not what you want me to chat about. Your here because you recently did an update to your legitimate or illegitimate Windows 7 installation and now you have an annoying popup (or an overlay on the bottom right hand side of your screen) that tells you that” This windows copy is not Genuine”.

Now when that appear your probably thinking one of two things:

1. “Dude, I paid for my copy, I bought this from Best Buy and w-t-f, now I have to call MS and wait on hold for this to check out correctly? or worse “I just upgraded some parts in my puter and now it’s not legit?”


2. “Im a mutha fckin pirate, slap a patch on my eye, and give me my digital booty, arggg!”

Which ever one you are, you both have the same problem, and here’s how to fix it.

The update that caused all this calamity was a slipped in update a few months back, though you may have just updated recently to evoke this. The update was :

Update KB971033

(loud booing emanates from the masses)

Don’t begin to think this was an end all solution, it seems that how fast they rolled this out, this is only a small speedbump in the span of attempting to keep Win7 non pirated.

So here’s the solution, you need to download a WAT removal tool, and what do you know, I just happen to have a link to that right here:


MIRROR 2 (If first link doesn’t work)

Torrent Download

Now I can’t take credit, this is a Hazar release, and let me tell you, if your not familiar with the cracker scene, this guy is considered a god.

I’ve messed with several WAT Removal apps out there, but this one seems to do the trick well.

I will as always offer any advice as needed, just post comments below 🙂 I’m at WDC2010 right now watching the new iphone 4 being announced, so I have to go, I may not have covered all so sorry if it sounds like I’m in a rush, cause I am!!



I am going to start by saying, that by reading this I potentially save you hours and hours of frustration and disappointment and possible returns and exchanges. Last week I decided I wanted to add 8gb and an SSD to my Unibody Macbook Pro (5,4). I hopped on the web and googled it, the general “how to” and I didn’t see much that stood out that warned me of any troubles to come. I obviously was not using the right search terms.

It started while at Fry’s electronics, and if you read my last post, you can read about the horrible experience with the exchanging and what not. I ended up bringing home a Patriot Torqx 128gb SSD, brand new in the box (ALWAYS GET A BRAND NEW UNOPENED BOX) just an fyi for future notice (read my previous post as to why).

I bought this drive due to the high read and write speeds, and overall it receives very nice reviews. Now there are some fortunate owners out there that were able to get this to work just fine. I was not one of those fortunate owners. I install the SSD into my macbook pro and booted the MBP up went into Disk Utility and voila, the drive appeared just fine, however when I attempted to format it and create a partition, it would go into an endless hang. I tried different methods of formatting (0’s and 35 pass) nothing worked. I restarted and tried several times but to absolutely no success. I hopped online and there were forums after forums describing the same problem, 50% of MBP users said it worked while another 50% said it did not. One thing that was never clearly stated was which model was it being installed it, there is a Macbook Pro (the older version) and the UNIBODY Macbook Pro. As far as I concluded, it does not work in the UMBP (unibody macbook pro), which is what I have. I contacted Patriot Technical support by phone and they were very friendly (their email support however is extremely slow),  but basically told me that it was truly a 50/50 chance.

The firmware of the SSD drive was up to date btw…

NOTE: Through all the SSD installations I had performed a reset of the PRAM and NVRAM (instructions on how to do this on the bottom of this post)

Now wait, I know some readers will say what about your Firmware version of your EFI? I have version 1.7 however I did downgrade to 1.6 and to no success either, same results. I could not find a way to downgrade to 1.5 which I believe it would have worked however, so if you have a UMBP and possibly version 1.5 of the EFI firmware, it may work for you just fine. There are plenty of forums and articles about what exactly the EFI firmware updates did/do, but to sum it up EFI 1.5 allowed you to install a SSD or an aftermarket HDD, and allowed your logic board (your motherboard) to utilize full SATA II and SATA I speeds. With the firmware 1.6 Apple decided that they did not want customers going out and buying third party solutions for storage (makes sense to Apple since they do make a nice profit on selling storage mediums), as well as since 97% of all macbooks and macbook pros shipping were coming with a standard SATA I hard drive, there was no need (for power consumption and battery life) to have the extra headroom of SATA II speeds, effectively, they just changed some code and nixed the SATA II speeds. To understand this is non-geek terms, it’s like your Nissan Maxima, the odometer reads like 140 or whatever, yet you have a governor that regulates your top speed to limit it to 110 or what not, because the speed limits are 65mph, there is no need to go faster..legally. Apple applied the governor basically. That’s why I drive a porsche, no governor, get it?

If you want to downgrade your EFI from 1.7 to 1.6, it is not that hard at all, here are the instructions courtesy of Panzo from Macrumors forums:

1) Download the linked .dmg file.…o_Recovery.dmg

2) do not mount file

3) plug in a usb drive any size

4) REformat this USB drive in Mac OSX HFS+ Journaled in disk utility.

5) Click on the newly formatted drive Volume, then click on the tab restore (same row as erase).

6) in this panel you will see two white input boxes, in source you will browse and select the .dmg downloaded in step 1, you can either brose it or drag and drop it in the source bow.

7) in the Destination box, drag and drop the newly formatted Volume from step 4/5

* no need to have the erase destination box checked/ticked.

8) hit the restore button/

9) once this is done, unplug and replug the usb drive, shut down the machine

10) boot up the machine while its booting up, before the apple icon pops up, press and hold the OPTION button until your drives/partitions pop up.

11) in my case i had three pop up, my bootcamp partition my main mac harddrive, and the BOOTABLE USB drive i just made, select the bootable USB drive (yellow orangish color) Use Arrows to navigate and Enter button to select

12) once this is selected the apple logo will come up and a dark gray bar will start to move right under it. Sit relax and wait for the process to be done.

END: you have now downgraded to EFI firmware 1.6

If you get this error

“Image Error:

Could not find any scan information. The source image needs to be imagescanned before it can be restored.”

Click on the image file in the list on the left and then click on Image in the menu and then on Scan Image for Restore. After that, everything should go smoothly.

Thanks to SmAcDuff for pointing out the solution to the Image scan error.

We continue on this amazing quest…

After my failed attempt, I went back and exchanged the Patriot Torqx for a Corsair Extreme SSD 128gb, I had again read that this drive worked for a lot of people with MBP (and again they never specified if it was a unibody or not), and it was a amazingly fast SSD to top it off, and Corsair has a quality reputation. I installed the Corsair SSD (which is damn sexy), and booted up into Snow Leopard setup. Disk Utility saw the drive, and amazingly I was able to format, and partition the drive, perfectly, no problems here. I continued on the install and selected the SSD to have Snow Leopard installed on it. The install started and I began to get excited! Then….it hung, on an endless “Setup will complete in 33 minutes” The progress bar stuck under the “X” in Mac OS “X” setup, I waited 3 hours….no movement whatsoever. I restarted and attempted again, same spot, it hung. I verified that the install DvD was not corrupt, still nothing. A quick hop online again and noticed again, that some individuals were having this same problem as well. I tried 1.7 and again downgraded to 1.6, no success. I reallllllllllly wanted to have the Corsair SSD inside my UMBP, but unfortunately, it didn’t work. Back to the store again…

I think by now most people would have given up and called it a day, or possibly forked over the $600-700 for the SSD upgrade directly through Apple, but when I want something done, I get it done, my way.

Next, I picked up the Patriot 128gb SSD KOI drive, some people think it is the “KDI” but Patriot verifies it is “KOI” (maybe they should have picked a better font). This drive even bears the “Mac Compatible” logo on the box and on the drive itself. I installed the drive, went through the process all over. The drive was recognized by Disk Utility, I was able to format and partition, but again, the install hung at 33-35 minutes, waiting for hours did absolutely nothing. At this point I began to think it was impossible to install a SSD that was not Apple certified. I began to think that my install DvD was bad. I began to get really irritated driving 26 miles to the nearest Fry’s and dealing with incompetent UEI and Devry graduates that worked there. But I was not about to give up, no sir, when I am determined to get it done, I will get it done, period. I was willing to try and return every-single-brand of SSD drives that they had to offer, then go even further and go through’s inventory.

Next up was the Intel 80gb SSD from (Btw if you live in Southern California, typically has your package to you the next morning, excellent shipping!) I had to go with an 80gb SSD from intel rather a 128gb because the price of a 80gb Intel SSD is the same price as the 128gb of all the other brands ($320-$420). I didn’t want to only have 80gb of space, but I figured hell, if it works I’ll use my old Sata 250gb HDD as the storage externally. This drive is hands down the sexiest drive out of all of the SSD’s I had gone through, just thought I’d mention that. I installed the SSD in my unibody MBP, and booted it up, and muther f**k me, it didn’t even pop up in disk utility. I hopped online and noticed that there was a firmware update, so I downloaded the firmware and updated the drive. Restarted the uMBP, and voila! it popped up under Disk Utility, I was feeling excited at this point. I successfully was able to format and partition the drive, and begun the install, and…. …………………………………………………. . . . …..  . . .. it didn’t get passed the “candycane” progress bar swirling infinitely. Would not tell me how long until the process completed, it just stopped. Several restarts later, updating and downgrading the EFI, nothing. At this point I had read that one brand was extremely successful, which was the OCZ 128gb, and I was just about to order it but then I’m not sure why I decided to look at Kingston SSD drives, I figured if Kingston’s SSD drives were anything like their memory modules, which are known for to be universal compatible, then I might actually have a decent chance it would work.

I went back to Fry’s and picked up a Kingston 128gb SSDnow V+ series, which I might add for some reason is discontinued (Kingston will “refurbish” if it fails but that’s as far as it goes). Originally I didn’t want to go with Kingston, it doesn’t boast the fastest speeds of all the available SSD’s out there, however it is about 30% faster than the Apple SSD if you would have purchased your macbook/mackbook pro with one directly from Apple. Out of all the SSD’s I went through, this one had the best packaging, and accessories included as well. The other SSD’s only had a 3.5 mounting kit and the SSD itself. The Kingston came with a SATA II external enclosure,  SATA cable, SATA power plug, and a mounting kit for 3.5 slots. The drive itself I have to admit looks decent enough as well, it is coated in a sandpaper style rough texture which makes it feel rugged (no it won’t scratch anything like sandpaper would, unless your an idiot). Now to be clear, there IS two other 128gb Kingston SSDnow  drives available, and the prices are slightly cheaper, and from all perspectives they seem the same, however it is the write speed and read speeds that differ, be a big boy or girl and cowboy up and pay for the most expensive one, it has the highest read/write speeds (that’s this one the V+ series). I installed the drive, under 1.7 EFI firmware, and booted up, and Disk Utility immediately recognized the SSD, I formatted and partitioned the drive, and began the install, and what do you know people…..WE HAVE A WINNER. I am currently typing this on my much zippier and faster unibody Macbook pro, running Snow Leopard with all updates. I have not ran into any problems yet. It does load apps and boot tremendously faster. As a bonus I used the external enclosure that was included to stick my old 250gb HDD that was in the uMBP and transfer all my data to the new SSD.

I did notice (but it might not be related) that when I have Thunderbird (email client) open, sometimes the rainbow spinning wheel appears for 20 seconds or so, but it may not be the drive, only time will tell. I will post a video of boot up speed after the break, as well as Benchmark speeds. I will also disable the AMS sensor, as it is no longer needed and now is just a service running for no reason.

If you are thinking of upgrading to an SSD I highly recommend doing so, you can notice a large difference, especially when opening apps, and copying files, and bootup times. During this whole ordeal I had upgraded to 8gb of ram in the Macbook Pro as well, and I definitely agree that if you use Photoshop, Illustrator, Imovie, Garageband, Aperture 3 or any memory intensive applications, it is definitely worth it. If your like me and own a macbook pro unibody AND a imac 27″, you get a double bonus for upgrading the memory in your uMBP, the two 2x2gb sticks that you pull out of your uMBP, can be inserted into your two empty slots in your iMac, so that both of your systems have 8gb of memory (they both use DDR3 1066 204 pin), I’m not 100% sure if the 24″ iMac has two available slots but I imagine so.

I hope I have saved you some time, and definitely a large headache. Posted below is how to reset your PRAM NVRAM:

Resetting PRAM and NVRAM

  1. Shut down the computer.
  2. Locate the following keys on the keyboard: Command, Option, P, and R. You will need to hold these keys down simultaneously in step 4.
  3. Turn on the computer.
  4. Press and hold the Command-Option-P-R keys. You must press this key combination before the gray screen appears.
  5. Hold the keys down until the computer restarts and you hear the startup sound for the second time.
  6. Release the keys.

Your computer’s PRAM and the NVRAM are reset to the default values. The clock settings may be reset to a default date on some models.

If you have any questions I will gladly help you, just post a comment.



UPDATE 5/8/2010

I’ve ran into my first issue/error with the SSD. I haven’t had much time to intensively use the SSD, it’s just been used for blogging and some light video editing, however this last week, I ran into what I am logically guessing a problem with the SSD.

Earlier this week I attempted to transfer a Bluray to my ipad (yes this can be done, I have transferred a few to it the week prior, however not from my uMBP) every time I attempted it, the files at different times, would fail, giving me an error, “the file “blah blah” could not be transferred because Macbook SSD can not be read or written to”. This wasn’t a sync issue, rather (I’m speculating) an issue with the SSD being able to sustain a longer period of consistent writes/write time. However, I could be wrong, it could be a wonky itunes issue, it could be a “ipad in early issue” but I am guessing it very well may be the SSD. I will be editing some large video projects on it this week and will keep everyone updated.


Here’s a quickie, and who doesn’t like a quickie every now and then? I was looking for a decent FTP client for Snow Leopard, and I came across this post over at LifeHacker , While I figured this could be easily done, I didn’t connect the dots in myself, but to a simple point, Adam Pash lays out how to remotely access your Mac, without paying for the $100 a year “Back to my mac” (.mac) service. And my readers know I love software & solutions that costs Free-nintey-nine.

I already had dished out the dough, but for those that are reading, learn from others mistakes…

(P.S. It’s super simple to follow it through, don’t feel intimidated)

This is a quick blurb because it’s a simple fix, if you’ve downloaded (or bought) Borderlands, and when you double click the icon, it starts up, and you can only hear the audio, it’s because it’s starting in a resolution that your display didn’t recognize. No it’s not your display that’s the issue, it’s all the other janky people that have shitty monitors/lcd’s that the game developers try to accommodate.

To correct this and play your game just fine, right click on the icon (the desktop shortcut to play the game) and simply edit your resolution with the resx resy command, mine looks like this:

C:\Program Files\2K Games\Gearbox Software\Borderlands\Binaries\Borderlands.exe” -ResX=2560 -ResY=1600

Hit apply and voila it’s working now.

Now don’t forget to go and download the addon packs 😉

A lot, let me repeat a LOT of people are having issues when installing Adobe CS4 (and now CS5 as well) onto their PC’s and MAC’s, during installation (Checking System Profile)  it “freezes” at 90% I say “freezes” with parenthesis because it technically doesn’t freeze, the process just never continues. Ok, so your here because you have this issue and you don’t want to hear the BS…so here goes the solution… It isn’t because of Adobe Flash, it isn’t because of a trial installation of CS4 or CS3. It’s the lame ass stupid fckin anti-piracy check. Here’s how to solve the problem and install your legit OR pirated copy (Shadyman) or whatever version you have.

First:You must un-install prior installations of CS4 (or CS5), attempting to do so by Windows Control Panel>Add remove programs (or Programs & Features in Vista) , results in FAILURE, the stupid shit just doesn’t remove. (Mac users use APPZAP)

So go HERE and download the uninstall app from Adobe, BUT before you run it, Windows user must download and install (then restart your computer) “Windows Uninstaller something or other utility” (Link is included in the PDF in the uninstaller program from Adobe ) Trust me, you can’t skip this step. 😉  my fellow MAC users, the process is almost identical, except well, you won’t use Windows uninstaller something or other, you’ll use the MAC version, which the link is included as well in the same location above.

Second: you run the Windows/Mac uninstaller utility, it will ask for a restart, sooo Restart…once your back in Windows (or Tiger/Leopard/Snow Leopard) , run the Adobe uninstaller utility, it is a Command prompt box in windows, and I haven’t run it in MAC sooo I imagine it to be a terminal utility. It will ask if you want to remove Adobe CS3 or CS4 or CS5, I just chose to remove everything. (I know it’s scary because it just so happens that you have a deadline to meet tomorrow and don’t want to risk uninstalling everything…we all have that same deadline lol) Once its done uninstalling (it took like 10 minutes),  go into Control Panel and run windows default uninstall (add/remove programs , Programs & features in Vista) , Mac users, your pretty much ready for the next step after a restart.

Back into windows/Tiger/Leopard/Snow Leopard, DISCONNECT from the INTERNET completely, I say this because some people don’t pay attention that if they disc0nnect a LAN line, sometimes a wireless signal is picked up and again, your connected to the internet, just disable all NIC or wifi ports completely. Mac users, disable Airport, disconnect Cat5 cable, This applies for genuine versions as well as pirated versions! Once you’ve done all this, now run the installation

Since you’ve most likely watched the install a thousand times by now, your going to be anticipating the installer to freeze again at 90%, and for some funny reason, it will pause on 90% for about 45 seconds, but this time, IT CONTINUES!, go ahead and proceed with the installation, once its done:

Legitimate users:once the install is completed, you can register (if you want), and plug/turn on/enable the internet and your done 🙂

Pirated users:Once install is complete, it asks to register, obviously you don’t want to do that, close it and exit installation , DO NOT RUN CS4 components yet, install your crack, either the .exe replacements, or the activation disabler, or whatever crack you have, THEN run a CS4 or CS5 component. After this, you can plug/turn on/enable the Internet and your done 🙂

UPDATES: Seems like a lot more people run into this problem than I anticipated, here are some more solutions if the one I provided didn’t work, these have been submitted by visitors 🙂

Submitted by: “Flasher”

I tried this and worked fine…


(1) Attempt to install Flash CS4 upgrade normally (clicking setup.exe). You probably already did this…so you can actually skip…

(2) Go to control panel, add/remove programs and you should see Flash Professional CS4 in the program list. Leave the control panel up, you will need this later…

(3) Navigate to the following folder on your hard drive: C:\Program Files\Common Files\Adobe\Installers\a68eec966ce913ddaa63251dc82ed31\resources\common\scripts

(4) Locate a file called “ContainerProxy.js” open it with a text editor (E.G.: Notepad).

(5) Go to line 1102 or simply search for: “jsonObj = _jsonToObject(window.external.SetSessionInitialized(initValue));” and replace this line with: “jsonObj = _jsonToObject(SetSessionInitialized(initValue));”

(6) Save the file by pressing [Strg]+S or use the menu: Menu -> File Save.

(7) Go back to the Control Panel

(8.) Highlight software being installed (Flash CS4 )

(9) Reinitialize the installation by clicking on the change/remove button.

(10) Setup should now work as normal.

Another Solution:

Submitted by : Pablo & The Shadow of Destruction

For Mac users:
Block all connections to with little snitch!  (I recommend using Terminal and manually adding the servers to block IP’s. Little Snitch is an annoying app   -Exempt)

edit /etc/hosts before installing

How to:

Step 1 – Open Terminal and paste in:
sudo /Applications/ /etc/hosts  ALTERNATIVELY YOU CAN USE THIS:
sudo pico /etc/hosts
(Hit return and type in your admin password)

Step 2 – In TextEdit add new lines:
and save it.

Step 3 – leo: Open Terminal again and paste in:
sudo dscacheutil -flushcache
(Hit return and type in your admin password)

tiger: lookupd -flushcache

Another Solution:

Submitted by: “JP”


PC Users, i have a copy of CS4, i tried everything here, nothing happend, so this is what i did:

My copy has a DVD and 2 cds, i needed to extract the DVD to a folder “Adobe CS4″ and create folder “payloads” in “Adobe CS4″ and extract cd1 and cd2 in that folder, then run setup.exe.

So i move the complete “Adobe CS4″ folder to desktop, downloaded diskcleaner, run it, delete everything, turn off my wireless connection and run setup.exe again, it reaches 100% in 30 seconds!!.


Another Solution:

Submitted by: “Dubs”

This worked for me.

Only part that I needed to do something different is the following:

Go to line 1102 or simply search for: “jsonObj = _jsonToObject(window.external.SetSessionInitialized(initValue));”

(I couldnt find this so I did a search for: setsessioninitialized)
It found the line and then replaced it with:

jsonObj = _jsonToObject(SetSessionInitialized(initValue));


(1) Attempt to install Flash CS4 upgrade normally (clicking setup.exe). You probably already did this…so you can actually skip…

(2) Go to control panel, add/remove programs and you should see Flash Professional CS4 in the program list. Leave the control panel up, you will need this later…

(3) Navigate to the following folder on your hard drive: C:\Program Files\Common Files\Adobe\Installers\a68eec966ce913ddaa63251dc82ed31\resources\common\scripts

(a68eec966ce913ddaa63251dc82ed31 — It might be under a different name, just go into the folder and you will soon know if it’s the correct one or not.)

(4) Locate a file called “ContainerProxy.js” open it with a text editor (E.G.: Notepad).

(5) Go to line 1102 or simply search for: “jsonObj = _jsonToObject(window.external.SetSessionInitialized(initValue));” and replace this line with: “jsonObj = _jsonToObject(SetSessionInitialized(initValue));”


(6) Save the file by pressing [Strg]+S or use the menu: Menu -> File Save.

(7) Go back to the Control Panel

(8.) Highlight software being installed (Flash CS4 )

(9) Reinitialize the installation by clicking on the change/remove button.

Another Solution:

Submitted by “Lord Hellfire”

First of all. Disconnect the Internet, or better, set up a firewall to permanently block all communication with for the programs… I simply dare not let it update anything, as that may screw up the installation. I have little faith in Adobe’s abilities to keep CS3 and CS4 running smoothly after updating. (And no. It’s not a pirated version. I’m just not eager to go through this three day hell again)

Read through the entire text before you try it yourself, as the solution at the bottom may be what also works for you and then it would be senseless to go through all these steps first… ;)

First of all, open a command prompt and type: change user /install
This enters the user profile into an Installation mode (Server 2008 R2, remember?), which permits more changes to the registry, than even “run as administrator” does.

Installing CS3 (I installed this AFTER I managed to get CS4 installed):
– See fixes for CS4 regarding unreadable registry keys. No need to check log, as installer shows you which keys.
– CS3 has quite a lot more of these unreadable keys in Server 2008, than CS4 does.

Installing CS4:
If something goes wrong and the installer will not initialize (stays at 90% for more than a few minutes), close the installer and do the following:
– Open the log file (unpack the .log.gz with winrar)
Located in C:\Program Files(x86)\Common Files\Adobe\Installers\
– Check the bottom of the log.
– Some registry keys will be noted as unreadable.
– Search for these HEX keys and change the parent and subkey ownerships to ‘Administrators’.
– Then add ‘Administrators’ as users with full rights on the subkeys.
– Remove any Adobe installation (Setup and any CS3/CS4 related installations) using Windows Installer Cleanup.
Download WIC here:
– Run the CS4 Clean script. (requires WIC)
Download CS4 IC here:
– Delete the Program files(x86)/Common files/Adobe folder.
– If other Adobe programs use the Adobe folder, you may damage them, but they are a helluvalot easier to reinstall than CS3 and CS4.
– Reboot and try installation again. (Remember to ‘change user /install’ in a command prompt. This state changes whenever you log off, reboot or successfully complete an installation)

If it still fails/hangs at 90% for more than a few minutes, even after 10+ tries, then try this last simple workaround which worked for me… although I can only guess as to why…
– Start Internet Explorer.
– Start installation.
– Installer now completes the initialization beyond the 90%.
– Close Internet Explorer, when installer requests this.

Yet another submission from a commentor:

For all those who overlooked the fact that there actually are applications for Mac OS X which come with an uninstaller and tried to delete CS3/4 by dragging it into the trash: after running the clean script (as I did), it is not possible to use the uninstaller anymore (in case you haven’t emptied your trash yet and recovered the uninstaller files). If you try to reinstall the whole thing then, the installer will “freeze” at about 90%. The solution is to delete the “Adobe”-Folder in “/Library/ApplicationSupport”

As of April 8th 2010, I still do provide support for the install of CS4, even though we are a few short days away from the release of CS5. I understand most of us don’t rush out to buy the new CS5 and Adobe provides very limited support for CS4 due to this.

Most of the installation problems are caused by the piracy check, conflicting settings with previous Adobe installs, and improper uninstall before attempting to install a new Adobe Suite, so keep in mind you must delete all references to Adobe before getting a new install to work correctly.

**Update** Update** **Update** Update** **Update** Update** **Update** Update** **Update** Update**

Ok so a lot of us have learned that Adobe even with CS5, has not got their shit together still. And to be honest the installer is the exact same, plagued with the exact same issues. I could care less whether or not your using a legitimate copy or pirated, the install issues are just horrible.

The best method for installing whether it’s the ENTIRE CS4 or CS5 suite or just a singular app (like JUST Illustrator), is to disconnect the internet PRIOR to installation, if not, you can actually see that Adobe checks online to update the “blacklisted” serials from the pirated copies floating the web. If your already having problems, which most likely you are, because your reading this, then it gets pretty vanilla here and your options are very limited.

One, you try downloading the Adobe uninstaller tool, and run it, and delete any remnants of the CURRENT suite your trying to install, so if your trying to INSTALL CS5, and have been having problems, then run the tool, DELETE CS5, REBOOT (you MUST REBOOT), and try the install again with the INTERNET DISCONNECTED. If it doesn’t work at this point, and I know this is extreme, but I’d just reformat at this point….yah I said it…reformat the whole f*****in operating system. If your in Vista especially, it’s such a major pain in the ass to nit-pick and attempt to delete registry keys and what not.

Now you may not want to have to go through all of that, the whole reformat process, I don’t blame you, it takes hours even days to get settings back to normal, and it’s just a shitty experience overall.

Recently I attempted to help a friend install CS5, she had tried with no success several methods and yet none of them worked. She would insert Dvd 1, it would read it , start the installer, and then ask for Disk 2, then Disk 3, then back to Disk 1, then FAIL. Quite an annoying process. I tried for several hours to get beyond this, nothing worked. I thought it was originally bad DvD’s , but nope, a reformat, Windows 7 upgrade (she was using vista), and voila, runs flawlessly.

I personally recently installed CS5, a gift from Adobe, which I thought was very nice of them by the way. I too had trouble installing the entire suite. My install would ask for the serial, which I entered, my legitimate serial, and it said “invalid serial” over and over. I couldn’t figure out why, it was a legitimate copy from Adobe themselves. So I clicked on the “Trial” option, it installed the entire suite just fine. When I attempted to open any individual app however, it immediately asked for the serial, for every single app. Again the serial didn’t work. I finally found a Keygen online and it provided individual serials for each app, and this worked fine….go figure right?

I still have problems with After Effects CS4 AND CS5, they work, but are majorly bugged out. CS4 After Effects, my mouse cursor turns into a 1 inch by 1 inch pixelated black and white box, and never changes back, and in CS5 I get missing output modules error upon start, and attempting to add “wiggle” or sketch, gives me an error as well, and I can’t continue with my projects.

I did find out however in the midst of all the bullshit, a solution to a problem I’ve had for a few months. (and yes this is off topic but screw it)  I could not select certain menu items in After Effects (or any of the CS4 or CS5 suites) with the mouse, I had to TAB through them and select with the keyboard, then go back to editing with my mouse. This is a desktop composition problem with Windows and typically associated when you have dual or triple monitors, so one of two things work to fix it, A: Turn off windows desktop composition ENTIRELY, or B: right click the icon, and goto the COMPATABILITY tab, and check the little box “ignore Desktop Composition” or whatever it says. Restart the app and voila, your cursor goes back to normal.



4/21/2011 – This is a END ALL solution! I have tested so many variables and this worked flawlessly on all PC installation problems. Download THIS with your bitorrent of choice (mine is utorrent)or follow the link below and follow the instructions, it’s a VERY simple process. You should have no problems after this! I’m currently working on installation and verification issues with Magic Bullet Suite 10 as well, many users are complaining that the plugins continuously ask for serials even with legitimate copies, at first I thought it was a user problem until I experienced it myself!

Adobe installation Pirate Arrghhh Toolkit (by “thethingy”)

Ok the last version I tweaked works perfectly with fresh installs of Win Vista (any version), however for users that are weeks or possibly months into using Vista and seem to have a issue, there is a similar Vista hack. Basically a windows update , Specifically  KB940510 prevents you from applying the patch, Im not sure if uninstalling it then applying the patch works, but again email me, leave me a message (your email addy is kept private)  and I will email you the crack…for testing purposes only of course. The new updated crack works regardless of what stage your Vista is in, stops the 30 day countdown, registers Windows Vista (all versions) and will pass validation on Microsoft’s website, you even get to pick your System information Logo.

(Below is old post)

Here’s my latest rabbit in the hat, a Vista (All versions, Business, home, ultimate etc) timer and BIOS hack, once installed it’s permanently activated, well until 2050, and if your still using it then, well you have issues. It will fully work with windows update via OS, web, and even the annoying ActiveX control app through M$. I tweaked some issues I had with the original release so I can’t take all credit for it, some other bloke did some work as well. Anyways, as always if you want the app, just leave a comment with a contact email and I will send you a link to download it, if your worried about trackbacks you paranoid nuts, just create a email via Yopmail, or MakeMe the King email services and remain forever anonymous 😉 …

EDIT: Hell, here’s the download link, Just remember Im “referring” the link:  CLICKY ME HERE

UPDATE: Ok I’ve played around a lot more with this, the BEST option for this to work flawlessly , is to have a fresh install of Windows Vista SP1, since there is a patch in one of the updates that PREVENTS you from applying this successfully, HOWEVER, if it is already installed and you update all Windows Vista updates, it will give you a  message that something has interefered with Windows Vista legitimacy, but it still works perfectly after the one time only warning, even verifying on Windows update website.

For the people that have already updated and this isnt working, give me some time to find you a timer bypass, or timer stop, something along those lines. However I’m not confident that it will register as legitimate, but well see…


*** UPDATE*** Disregard most of the information above, from Windows Vista (all versions) and Windows 7 (All versions) And of course Windows XP (All versions) I have posted here in my blog the link to the cracks and timer bypasses for all, Located HERE CLICK HERE CLICK HERE CLICK HERE